Free crochet pattern: Hoo Boo Halloween collar
Looking for a quick project to accessorise for Halloween? This spooky yet charming Halloween collar crochet pattern is designed with simple crochet stitches, it’s beginner-friendly yet offers enough creativity to keep more advanced crocheters engaged. Decorated with adorable crochet pumpkins and whimsical ghost tassels, making it a fun project for the spooky season.
This crochet pattern comes in seven sizes, ensuring a perfect fit for everyone—kids, adults, and even your pets! Whether you're looking for a cute costume accessory or a seasonal statement piece, this collar is the perfect touch of handmade magic.
Length around the neck: 7-18 1/9” (that is 18-46 cm)
Width: about 3 1/3” (that is 8.5 cm)
Skill level: intermediate
Crochet terms : US
You need:
Sport (also called 12 wpi; 5 ply; no 2: Fine) weight yarn in 2-5 colors about 40g or 140 yards total
The samples are made with Drops Safran yarn (100% cotton), colors:
MC (violet) – number 70
CC1 (black) – number 16
CC2 (white)– number 18
CC3 (orange) – number 67
CC4 (brown) – number 68
· Crochet hook 2.5 mm or hook to obtain gauge 4” (10 cm) = 25 sts (in hdc)
· Stuffing material for the pumpkins
· Tapestry needle
Abbreviations:
MC – main color yarn (violet)
CC1 – contrast color 1 yarn (black)
CC2 – contrast color 2 yarn (white)
CC3 – contrast color 3 yarn (orange)
CC4 – contrast color 4 yarn (brown)
St(s) – stitches
(x, x) * repeat x times – work the stitches given in the brackets round mentioned time
Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together
Tbo – through back loop only
Flo – through front loop only
Bottom layer
With MC or CC1 yarn ch 46; 56; 66; 76; 86; 96; 116 (choose the size depending on the length from the cover page, size: 1; 2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7 and follow the given number throughout the pattern)
Row 1 (RS): 1 hdc in 3rd ch (counts as 1st hdc) from the hook, 1 hdc in each ch across, turn (45; 55; 65; 75; 85; 95; 115 hdc)
Row 2 (WS): ch 2, (counts as 1st hdc now and later), 1 hdc flo in next 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9 hdc, (2 hdc flo in next hdc, 1 hdc flo in next 8; 10; 12; 14; 16; 18; 22 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc flo in next hdc, 1 hdc flo in last 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10 hdc, turn (50; 60; 70; 80; 90; 100; 120 hdc)
Row 3: ch 2, 1 hdc blo in each hdc, turn (50; 60; 70; 80; 90; 100; 120 hdc)
Row 4: ch 2, 1 hdc in next 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 10 hdc, (2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next 9; 11; 13; 15; 17; 19; 23 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in last 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 12 hdc, turn (55; 65; 75; 85; 95; 105; 125 hdc)
Rows 5, 7, 9 and 11: ch 2, 1 hdc in each next hdc, turn
Row 6: ch 2, 1 hdc in next 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 11 sts, (2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next 10; 12; 14; 16; 18; 20; 24 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in last 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 12 hdc, turn (60; 70; 80; 90; 100; 110; 130 hdc)
Row 8: ch 2, 1 hdc in next 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 11 hdc, (2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next 11; 13; 15; 17; 19; 21; 25 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in last 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 11; 13 hdc, turn (65; 75; 85; 95; 105; 115; 135 hdc)
Row 10: ch 2, 1 hdc in next 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 12 hdc, (2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 12; 14; 16; 18; 20; 22; 26 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in last 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 11; 13 hdc, turn (70; 80; 90; 100; 110; 120; 140 hdc)
Row 12: ch 2, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; 8; 10 hdc (2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next 13; 15; 17; 19; 21; 23; 27 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in last 5; 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 12 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (73; 83; 93; 103; 113; 123; 143 hdc)
Row 13: ch 2, hdc2tog,1 hdc in each next 68; 78; 88; 98; 108; 118; 138 hdc, hdc2tog (71; 81; 91; 101; 111; 121; 141 hdc). Cut the yarn and fasten off.
Top layer
With right side facing and the foundation ch pointing to your lap, find the two rows that have empty loops facing to you (Rows 2 and 3) (Picture 2).
Work the top layer with MC yarn going through the bottom row of empty loops (Row 2), join the yarn to the first st of that row and continue:
Collar Row 1 (RS): ch 2, 1 hdc in each next 44; 54 ; 64; 74; 84; 94; 114 empty loop facing to you, turn (45; 55; 65; 75; 85; 95; 115 hdc)
Collar Row 2 (WS): ch 2, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in next 1; 2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7 sts, (2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next 8; 10; 12; 14; 16; 18; 22 hdc)*repeat 4 times, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in last 2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; 8 hdc, hdc2tog, turn (48; 58; 68; 78; 88; 98; 118 hdc)
Collar Row 1 (RS): ch 2, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each next hdc until 2 hdc left: hdc2tog (46; 56; 66; 76; 86; 96; 116 hdc), cut the yarn and fasten off.
With right side of the piece facing, single crochet around the three sides of both top and bottom layer of the collar with MC yarn, this is for having a smooth edge and the stitch count does not matter.
Ribbon
With CC1 yarn ch 50, now continue with the same chain on your hook to the 2cnd row of empty loops you had on the bottom layer of the collar (Picture 5), attach the yarn to the first st of that row and work 1 sc to each empty loop, ch 50, cut the yarn
Wave in all ends, block the collar and press. Make knots at the end of ribbons
Pumpkin
With CC3 yarn ch 9.
Row 1: 1 hdc into the 3rd ch from the hook (counts as 1st hdc), 1 hdc in each next hdc, turn (8 hdc)
Row 2: ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), 1 hdc tbo in each next hdc, turn (8 hdc)
Repeat Row 2 for 7 times more, cut the yarn leaving a longer end for sewing (Picture 7).
Fold the rectangle to line up two shorter edges. Using your preferred method, sew these two sides together with your tapestry needle (Picture 8).
Next seam together the bottom of the pumpkin by waving in and out of the open edge, pull to clinch and close. Make a knot to fasten and continue with the same thread and needle going through the empty pumpkin towards the other open edge.
Insert stuffing and wave your yarn tail in and out to close this open edge too. Push the pumpkin to give it a classic pumpkin shape (Picture 9).
Vine (make 1 for each pumkin)
With CC4 yarn ch 10.
Row 1: 2 sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc in each next ch, cut the yarn leaving a longer end, fasten off (18 sc) (Picture 10)
With this yarn end and your tapestry needle attach the vine to the top of the pumpkin.
Next go through the pumpkin with your needle to come out bottom center.
Going in and out at the bottom of the pumpkin, wave the yarn 2-3 times around the tip of the needle and pull through to make a little knot (Picture 11). Cut the yarn and wave in all ends.
Ghost tassels
Wrap CC2 yarn around a matchbox or something that is about 2”(4-5 cm) long, count the times you wrap (I did about 30) and do the same amount of wraps for all your ghosts. Cut the yarn.
With a separate yarn thread (and with the help of your tapestry needle), go under the wrapped yarn and secure with few knots the top of the ghost (Picture 12).
Roll the wrapped yarn off from the matchbox and cut the opposite end from the knot to make a tassel.
Wrap some yarn horizontally around the tassel, about 1/3 from the top. Secure with few knots (Picture 13). Trim the ends.
With CC1 thread and your tapestry needle embroider the eyes.
Bring the thread from below to the ghost “head” through the horizontally wrapped yarn, wrap the yarn around 2 threads of the MC as one eye, go through the “head” to the point where you want the second eye to start and wrap the yarn once again around 2 threads exiting the ghost “head” through bottom knot and hiding the CC1 yarn end into the knot (Pictures 14-17).
Optional: you can secure the tassel yarn with hairspray.
Picture 1: working on the bottom layer
Picture 2: two rows on the RS with empty loops
Picture 3: start the top layer working hdc to bottom row of empty loops
Picture 4: finished top layer
Picture 5: after chaining for the first ribbon, work sc into the 2cnd row of empty loops that will be under the top layer of the collar
Picture 6: work hdc through back loop only
Picture 7: pumpkin after 9 rows
Picture 8: fold and sew shorter edges together
Picture 9: stuff the pumpkin
Picture 10: crochet vine
Picture 11: decorating the bottom
Pictures 12: making the tassel and securing with a knot
Pictures 13: make the bottom knot to form the “head” and trim the ends
Pictures 14-15: making the first eye
Pictures 16-17: making the second eye
Pictures 18-19: finishing the ghost tassels